The world’s top jewellers have been letting their imaginations run wild, as we discovered at TEFAF

Some seriously imaginative and artistic jewellery was presented at the the world-renowned annual art fair, TEFAF Maastricht, last week in the Netherlands. The world’s leading haute joaillerie brands unveiled their most creative and lavish designs of the year, including Wallace Chan, Hemmerle, Reza, Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura and Otto Jakob. 


Otto Jakob’s elaborate NEF necklace, which features a pair of pendants made with oxidised gold, briolette-cut diamonds and vitreous enamel

Chan, the only living Asian jeweller exhibiting at the fair, captivated visitors with his large-scale sculptural art made from lightweight colored titanium and precious gemstones. One of his wearable pieces, the Sea of Joy fish brooch (main image) resembled a finely detailed sculpture sparkling with opal, yellow diamonds, citrines, lapis lazuli, pink sapphires, and tsavorite garnets.


Reza’s Dune cuff – a sculptural cuff sprinkled with diamonds

Two German jewelers, Hemmerle and Otto Jacob, exemplified their unique approach to jewelry making through unusual material combinations. ‘The juxtaposition of materials such as everyday objects, artifacts, or antiquity that we use gives our creations a vivacity that lends them a different edge,’ says Munich-based Christian Hemmerle. To that end, Hemmerle’s stand-out pieces included an aluminium, aquamarine and deep blue sapphire large-scale cuff featuring an ancient Egyptian architectural pattern.


Hemmerle’s jewelled rectangular earrings with a 19th century micro mosaic portrait of an Egyptian pharaoh 

In the same Egyptian spirit, Hemmerle created a pair of jeweled rectangular earrings with a 19th century micro mosaic portrait of an Egyptian Pharoah. The big attraction at Otto Jakob’s presentation was the elaborate Nef necklace, which features a pair of pendants – made with oxidized gold, briolette-cut diamonds, and vitreous enamel – that each sport a flower-filled cornucopia with a macaw peeking its head out.


Vedura’s X necklace made with peridots, yellow sapphires and diamonds

The New York-based Verdura collection caught the attention of visitors with a colorful new version of its signature X necklace made with peridots, yellow sapphires, and diamonds, as well as an impressive detachable oval peridot drop. Belperron presented a collection of its namesake designer’s early pieces that she made in the 1930s and ‘40s. And Olivier Reza, the creative mind behind Parisian jeweler Alexandra Reza, created a series around last year’s Dune cuff – an elaborate sculptural cuff sprinkled with diamonds – which became the catalyst for a series of new earrings and rings.

Katerina Perez