Helbers delivers a quietly confident new collection that works hard day and night

Having cut his teeth at Louis Vuitton and Maison Margiela, Dutch designer Paul Helbers’ solo venture is called, simply, Helbers. What makes his eponymous brand different from the fashion houses on his CV? ‘Helbers whispers instead of shouts across an overcrowded menswear market,’ he tells Robb Report.

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Helbers’ quiet, considered collections (SS17 will be his second) riff on an almost military palette of navy and grey, with super-soft fabrication. Cotton-blends and linen feature heavily, but corduroy – a fabric the fashion set are starting to take seriously again – forms the base of a striking dusty blue blazer.

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The focus overall is on ‘forever fashion’, or finely-tuned staples that won’t turn heads, but will have friends stealing admiring glances at details, such as the asymmetric button fronts on speckled pale linen trousers and shorts.

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‘My idea has always been to make everyday clothes extraordinary, and to avoid distinctions between day and night, work and play, and high and low,’ Helbers tells us. Sounds like forever fashion made easy – something we could certainly get in to. helbers.fr/en

Alice Newbold