One of the most famous names in British shoemaking steps out with new energy

Tricker’s is a Northampton shoemaker in the fine English tradition (established in 1829 and still based at its old factory which opened in 1904) – the brand is famous for its distinctive, chunky, country brogues with a heavy sole. In fact, if there’s a word to describe the brand, it’s traditional. Country pursuits, walks with the dogs and whisky in hip flasks, that sort of thing.

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Its store has been in the same location on Jermyn Street in London for more than 90 years, and once inside you feel cocooned from the harsh new world without. There, with its wood panelling and old-school fitting stools which the long-serving staff perch upon (and occasionally slide off) while lacing you up, it feels that the business has remained untroubled by the pace of change elsewhere. I last bought a stout pair of brogue boots from Tricker’s about 15 years ago, and the store looks exactly the same today as it did then.

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But appearances, as we know, can be deceptive. Behind the scenes Martin Mason, a new managing director and the first from outside the Tricker’s family, is moving things along with considerable élan. To whit, a newly transactional website for the first time (imagine), and a SS17 collection modelled by street-style photographer and fan of the brand, Garcon Jon, aka London-based Jonathan Daniel Pryce (pictured here).

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Alongside the usual rugged boots and brogues (including the perennial white ones, which have something of a cult following) there are single-welted, soft Castorino suede loafers, derbies and double monks, and a smart boot style, in browns and navy. These new suede shapes have ultra-flexible leather soles, and are remarkable light to wear. Elsewhere, pops of colour on soles and two-tone finishes on smart city shoes show that while the brand is rightly proud of its heritage, its current direction is worth keeping an eye on. trickers.com

Paul Croughton